Description

The room is 28 x 24 and includes substantial acoustic treatments from ASC. It's used 95% for 2-channel music and 5% for movies. I've configured the room so as to eliminate the negative aspects of having an intergrated music/movies room. The sound is very balanced. I'd like to add a little additional depth to the soundstage and introduce some "tube-like" sense without tubes. I am considering adding an Ayre or BAT preamp.
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Components Toggle details

    • Esoteric P70 transport
    transport
    • Esoteric D70 DAC
    DAC
    • Transparent 110 ohm EAS/EBU and 75 ohm BNC
    Use 2 AES/EBU cables between P70 and D70 as well as a third digital interconnect to slave the clock
    • Walker Audio Velocitor w/Valid Points & Stand
    Used to power the front end (P-70/D-70) transport/DAC. Especially good synergy with Silent Source Signature cables.
    • Silent Source Signature (3)
    Powering P70/D70 transport/dac
    • Nordost Valkyrja (5 meters)
    From DAC output to Electrocompaniet Nemo monoblock input via EVS Ultimate Attenuators (see below)
    • Electronic Visionary Systems Ultimate Attenuators (XLR)
    In place of preamp to control volume at XLR inputs of Levinson 336 amp
    • Elecrocompaniet NEMO
    600w x monoblocks
    • Bybee Powercords (2)
    New powersord incorporating Bybee devices. Powers Electrocompaniet Nemo monoblocks.
    • B & W Loudspeakers Nautilus 800D
    upgraded from 802's on 2/05
    • Zcable Z-sleeves (7)
    Unexpectedly effective products. Allowed me to eliminate power conditioners.
    • ASC Tube and Cube traps (6)
    Extensive bass traps to tune room
    • ASC Sound Panels (16)
    Room tuning and covering plasma TV monitor when listening to music.
    • B & W Loudspeakers Nautilus HTM-1 (movies only)
    each, center
    • Pioneer Pioneer Elite dv37 (for movie only)
    Highly modded by Modwright. Only used for movies.
    • B & W Loudspeakers SCM 1
    • Sony SPD-EP9es
    Outboard processor. I must recable for movies since i don't use a preamp.
    • Proceed HPA-3
    250w x 3 only used for center and rear speakers when watching movies.
    • N H T Sub Two (2)
    Two units in stereo mode
    • ASC Substands
    Bass absorption under the NNNHT Sub Two's

Comments 11

Hey Emom,

Just in case you happen to check this posting of your system.

I see you tried to sell your LessLoss DAC 2004, and the ad expired. Any chance you'd reconsider? I'm interested. [email protected]

Thanks

lefatshe

Owner
System edited: I've changed the power distribution to my front end with very very good results. Silent Source Signature PCs used with a Walker Velocitor have taken my system to a new level. I never would have guessed it, since I swore off all conditioners in the past when they all had some type of negative effect.

emom

Owner
System edited: OK - after 9 months of doing nothing I've upgraded my digital cables, and it is a defilite improvement. What do you think I should do next: (a) upgrade to high power monoblocks (EC Nemo's, Krell 740 mcx, ML 33's Classe Omega), (b) upgrade my Transparent Ultra MM Bicables to Reference MM, or (c) add a high-quality preamp (Ayre kx-1, BAT-51SE).

emom

Owner
System edited: I need suggestions for power cord and interconnect upgrades.

emom

Owner
System edited: I'm going to probably add more z-sleeves and look at upgrading cables.

emom

Owner
System edited: Added new front end, eliminated preamp, eliminated power conditioners and substituted Z-sleeves. Comments?

emom

Nice system! Like you, I was fighting some digital nasties but I came across a device that improved everything. It's called the XO3 and it's a self-powered S/PDIF reclocker. It replaces the clock on you CD player, then reclocks the S/PDIF that is generated by the CD player. The edges are then nearly jitter free. Not only did it reduce glare, but it improved focus and depth and pretty much eliminated sibilants. I came to the conclusion that if the digital signal is jitter free, it stops sounding digital. I also have a hot-rodded MSB Link DAC III with upsampling. While that's not an extremely expensive DAC, it does a really good job if the digital input is high quality.

The XO3 requires some ingenuity to install and if you are not a DIY type, you should probably hire someone to do it but I think you'd be amazed at the difference it could make.

jlambrick

Does your EAD allow you to by-pass it's digial processing to pass a pure analogue signal? If so you could add an upsampling DAC which should give you substantially better cd sound quality.

grandpad

Very nice system. Try Transparent for your cables (the ultra series or above for your system) this should reduce your problem with the glare, and wait untill you see what it does for your soundstage! Though I recommend Transparent for the cables I am not a big fan of thier power cords, try the cardas golden ref, A.C. master coupler, or one of the other well known brands. as always, good luck...........Vader!

vader007

Very nice system. Try Transparent for your cables (the ultra series or above for your system) this should reduce your problem with the glare, and wait untill you see what it does for your soundstage! Though I recommend Transparent for the cables I am not a big fan of thier power cords, try the cardas golden ref, A.C. master coupler, or one of the other well known brands. as always, good luck...........Vader!

vader007

Try buying a theta or proceed transport for your dvds/cds.

lordgorian

Showing all 11 posts