Description

I am saving for a amp. But what I have now does no harm, so I'm in no rush. And will save for what I want in the 2,000 or less ballpark.
Read more...

Components Toggle details

    • Solid Epoxy Resin 2-pc. 54
    I have 3pc 54" x 24" x 1" that I have not used yet. The 2 that I used as my platform are 60" (5ft.) x 24" x 1"
    • Solid Epoxy Resin 54
    Same two side by side. They both were on a solid Maple table that I also have.
    • Boo's Board Maple Platforms 3 Maple platforms
    This is what my system looked like before I add the 5ft. Solid Epoxy Resin platform. I sold the Emotiva UPA-1 Mono-Blocs (miss them badly).
    • Solid Epoxy Resin 2-pc. 60
    This what my system looks like now with the Epoxy Resin platform. Between the two 60" Epoxy Resin slabs there are 6 - 4"x4" anti vibration rubber/cork pads. Each 60" Epoxy Resin slab weights around 100lb. Two Target racks on each end, with a Salamander rack in the middle. The Salamander rack is turned sideways to fit on the Solid Epoxy Resin platform.
    • Solid Epoxy Resin 2pc. 60
    Side profile of the Epoxy Resin sandwich platform, with Maple cutting boards on racks. No floor born vibration hear.
    • Hales Design Group Revelation 3
    Timeless speakers. The best purchase I have ever made in audio. Would like to cut one of my extra 54" Epoxy Resin boards in half and replace the bottom Maple base with the Epoxy Resin base.BTW, My Hales Rev. Three have 4 Tungsten Carbide 1/2 roller-balls under them. They sit On top of the upper Maple platform.
    • Element Receiver/ Amp ESTR 200
    Shockingly cheap and powerful. Using amp section only, 100 wpc. of clean power. Great backup amp when times are tight and you want to keep the music playing. Also check out the Heat Pipes.
    • Boo's Boards- Epoxy Resin Platform Maple Boards - Epoxy Resin Platform
    Various sizes of Maple boards in my system, used with tungsten carbide roller balls under Maple boards for isolation.
    • Heat Pipes Various
    Used on all equipment and all around my listening room. Everything get's a Heat Pipe. Great way to efficaciously aid in sound enforcement. Natural, Passive, Powerful.
    • Three racks on platform Solid Epoxy Resin Platform
    Solid Epoxy Resin platform supporting all three racks.
    • Cooper strips DIY
    I use cooper strips in and around my system on power cords, interconnects, and speaker cables.
    • Neodymium MagnetsM Magnets from Hard-Drives
    I use one large (stronger) Neodymium Magnet on the transformer side of my amp. I also use a smaller Neodymium Magnet on the other side of the chassie as well.
    • wood chimes room tweak
    Wood chimes used in system as sound enhancment tweak. I have two of these Wood Wind Chimes in the back of my listen room. They increase bass and soundstage.
    • wind chime metal
    I use this metal wind chime in the center of my two speakers as a sound enhancement tweak. It works.
    • CD Racks CD's in racks
    Some of my CD's with sound enhancement tweak all around.
    • CD's on racks Music CD's
    Another look of some of my music CD's.
    • Music CD's CD's
    Some of my music CD'S, SACD's DVD-AUDIO disc.
    • Heat Pipes Aluminum and Copper Heat Pipes
    Aluminum and Copper Heat Pipes used on equiptment and as room sound enhancement. They both sound different when used in the same application.
    • Solid Epoxy Resin Solid Epoxy Resin
    Replaced bottom Maple platform under speakers with a Black Solid Epoxy Resin slab.
    • Solid Epoxy Resin Solid Epoxy Resin
    Replaced bottom Maple platform with a Black Soild Epoxy Resin slab.
    • Solid Epoxy Resin Solid Epoxy Resin
    I now have Solid Epoxy Resin platforms under both my racks and speakers.
    • Metal Wind Chime tweak Wind Chime
    I use metal Wind Chimes in the front of my system, and wood Wind Chimes in the back of my listening room.
    • Metal Wind Chimes tweak Metal Wind Chimes
    I use metal Wind Chimes in the front of listening room, and wood Wind Chimes in the back of my room.
    • D.I.Y Sound Shade D.I. Y
    I made these sound enhancement shade out of solid all Aluminum light shade, with a pure copper fitting and pure brass cap base. I use 9 of these in my listening room 5-pc's are 8.5 inches round. And 4-pc's are 10.5 inches round.
    • D.I.Y Sound Shade D.I.Y - 8.5 inches round.
    I use this D.I.Y Sound Shade Aluminum shade as a sound enhancement tweak. This one is between my two speakers. The sound is better in every way with these tweaks in my system. I use 9 in all. I have 5 in the front of my system (not past my listening chair) and 4 in the back (past my listening chair).
    • D.I.Y Sound Shade D.I.Y - 10.5 inches round
    This 8.5 inche all Aluminum D.I.Y Sound Shade is in the front left corner in my listening room behind my left speaker. If it is removed the sound suffers. Less life, less openess, less dynamic. So it stays.
    • D.I.Y Sound Shade 10.5 inches round
    I have this 10.5 inch round Sound Shade in the back left corner of my listening room. I have the same size Sound Shade in the right corner as well.
    • D.I.Y Sound Shade 10.5 inch round
    D.I.Y Sound Shade, 10.5 inch round.
    • D.I.Y Sound Shade 10.5 inch round
    Back right corner Sound Shade.
    • D.I.Y Sound Shade 10.5 inch round
    I have a 10.5 Sound Shade in the back left and right corner of my listening room. The 10.5 Sound Shade in the back center of my listening room makes sitting off axis feel like your sitting in the sweet spot even though your not.

Comments 5

Owner
Hi, B Limo.

I have added more pictures of the various tweaks that I use in my system. My over all take is that every tweak should add not subtract from another tweak.

That is why you have to be careful with what you put in your listening room. Not every tweak is for everyone.

I have been tweaking my system for years. It has been painstaking, sometimes we are talking about as little as a 1/4 inch of placement left or right is the difference between Gold and Fools Gold in sound.

The wind chimes were no different. Getting the right height from the ceiling and the right spot to hange them was a long process. I have had the wind chimes in my system for over 3 years. They are used to move the air around in my listening room. There is a lot more energy in my system with the wind chimes in my system.

Every listening room is different, but if you want to use the wind chimes. I would start with 4 wind chimes, two in the front and two in the back corners of your room. It is going to be trail and error. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A PAD AND PENCEIL TO WRITE DOWN YOUR MEASUREMENTS. Have music that you know to use as a test . A good test CD of vocal, bass, drum, and piano is very important to dailing in your sound as you tweak

jejaudio

Owner
System edited: I replaced the bottom Maple platform on both speakers with a Black Solid Epoxy Resin slab instead. The lower noise floor makes everything better. Bass is even deeper. Vocals are fuller. There was an etched to the sound that is gone. The picture with all Maple boards under the speakers is the old set-up. The two pictures with the black base under the one Maple board is the current set-up. I also added pictures of my D.I.Y sound enhancment tweaks I call Sound Shades. I could not think of any other name at the time. But they do work at enlarging the sound stage and adding to greater music flow. I have used these in my system for over a year. I use them in corners and in between my speakers with great results. I am also showing pictures of some of my metal and wood Wind Chimes. The wood Wind Chimes work best in the back corners. They sound good with or without the Sound Shade. But they sound even better with them. The same goes for the metal Wind Chimes that I use in the front of my listening room. The wood and metal Wind Chimes work great with the foam I use on the walls and ceiling in my listening room. It took me weeks just to get the right height of the Wind Chimes in my listening room. A inch higher or lower would change the sound drastically. The same with the foam.

jejaudio

I love all the tweaks you've done! If only I understood any of them maybe I could apply them. Maybe you could go into further explanation on the windchimes and magnets for those of us who aren't geniuses. Why do they help and where should I start? Thanks :-)

b_limo

Owner
Hi Jedinite24

I removed all the thermal grease for the Heat Pipes( a better name for most of the Aluminum, Aluminum/Copper pieces is Heat Sinks not Heat Pipes).

My theory is the Heat Pipes act as passive sound and vibration control devices. The Copper/Aluminium base is cleaned off and placed with the base-plate on top off the digital gear.

I have 4 CD player in my system. I place a Heat Pipes in the middle of the unit on all 4 CD players. Are they cooling the unit, I doubt it. But they do help, not hurt in sound quality. I place them near the the CD player's power supply.

So the Heat pipes help stop vibrations when placed on digital equipment. On amps and preamp the Heat Pipes sound best reversed, with the base-plate on top and not touching the gear. This is consistent no mater what amp or preamp I tried . BTW I remove all thermal grease with Denatured Alcohol.

I remove and clean the CPU chips and use them as sound reinforcement tweaks. Yes I use the CPU chip. The same for the all Aluminium pieces that you see in my system picture.

Jedinite, this is all trail and error in getting your system
dialed in.

The Heat Pipes are helping my system stay quiet, and move stagnant air around in my listening room. Combined this with all the rest of my tweaks a sound reinforcements you have the makings of a good listening room. Let the music play.

jejaudio

Hi Jejaudio

Your system has a lot of tweaks that I find very cool. One thing that is causing me to scratch my head are the heat pipes you have in your system. A lot of them look like larger CPU coolers from PCs. The coolers you see enthusiasts use for when the overclock their PCs.

From the pics you are putting them on top of your components.

My questions

1) Are these coolers/heat pipes helping in cooling the of the interior of the equipment? If so how are you doing it? Do you have the coolers somehow attached to a specific part of each piece of gear? Normally when I see CPU coolers they are attached to the chip with thermal grease in between.

2) Are the coolers secured to your components or are just resting on them? Are you ever concerned about vibrations with these items being on top of your equipment?

3) Where are the heat pipes and coolers placed exactly? Just on top of the power transformers? How did you find out where to put them? Was it just trial and error?

4) How do you think these heat pipes are helping out with your system?

Thanks for sharing your system and keep on tweaking.

jedinite24

Showing all 5 posts