Description

I am just beginning. However, this simple setup pleases all who enter in to hear...
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Components Toggle details

    • Monster Power HTS 3600
    Home Theater Reference Power Center (3 stage/filtering)
    • Sony CDP-CX455
    I bought this unit to avoid having to handle my discs
    • Sunfire Theater Grand 2
    Newest piece. very pleased. This is really for a future HT system. A more suitable preamp is planned for the future.
    • McIntosh MC-252
    250w X 2. I realy love this amp.
    • Klipsch RF-7
    These replaced my 901's (yep, Bose). These RF-7s are good speakers. Our love is growing stronger...
    • Yamaha YST-SW1500
    1000w powered
    • RCA I don't remember model
    Nice cheapo gold tipped, braided steel in three foot runs. Will upgrade these after other upgrade have occurred.
    • Monster Cable 16 gauge
    16 gauge
    • Bush AD551140-03
    5 tier (black glass) Wood: Cherry. This will be replaced as the usable dimensions are insufficient.

Comments 19

Hello Alburger, I repaired a cap some years ago by using a piece of duct tape and lightly pulling from the edges of the dent (very carefully I might add) until it all popped out, then slowly peeled the the duct tape off! This worked very well for me. Good luck with yours. By the way , nice system!

guystp

Do you ever plug your guitar in your system?

ponchovem

You may want to try your system without the Monster HTS3600. I found that it degraded the sound of my system when I used it with my McIntosh 2 channel system. The sound became dull, flat and congested. It sounded better plugged straight into the wall. I switched to a Richard Gray Power Company RGPC 600S and love the results. The smaller model 400 will also do a great job. Sorry.

kaw108

That amp on those speakers, must make them sing !! Always loved those Klipsch, How much power do you use when playing loud? I never go above 20 watts on my 94db sensitive Tannoy speakers.

Greetings,

philippevdb01

You a guitar player or a collector?

zioncity

You should try to use the new transparent mm technology speaker wire to push the current. I just upgraded to the super mm bi wire on my 804s b and w. what a difference

wsteacy

If you're a pro guy, you should have to include a bibliography of your albums on here, I think...

biomimetic

hi,nice rig,i really love how mac gear performs with klipsch speakers,the mc252 you have is an amazing amp,i liked mine so much i ended up buying 2 of them.

a good tube pre that will match up with your mc252 really well is a mcintosh c-20,your dust cap dilema is a super easy fix,get a shop vac & use your hand cupped in a circle to make contact with the dust cap then place the shop vac wand to your hand,it takes a few tries but it will pop right out every time.

good luck,mike.

bigjoe

Nice Guitar collection man...

KiD

the_kid

Owner
Thanks. I have been reseaching these forums and the web. I have the fix for 'soft'domes, but have not found any info for the metal dome that I have on my RF7s. It is purely a cosmetic woe as it dose not affect sonic performance. I will start a new thread on the topic. Incase your interested, a better way of fixing a soft dome is very carefully, without any contact, use a vacuum hose. Holding it very close directly in front causes a difference in air pressure (lowers i think) in front of dome causeing the air pressure in back of the dome to increase. This gentily pops the dome dent out.

alburger

Carefully inspect the dust cap that is "pushed in" and if it doesn't appear "creased" I have been told some decent 3M masking tape (the blue tape for painting @ Home Depot or Lowe's) pressed lightly on the area pushed in will allow it to be pulled out. Definately ask around however, as I am unfamiliar with your speaker voice coil dust caps and am uncertain if they are a polypropylene type or more along the lines of a wool or cloth type.

Make sure to ask around, or even start a thread, I am sure there are those out there that have successfully fixed this.

audiofankj

Owner
That is a good question. Probably the person who helped me position them or something might have 'backed-in' or similar.
I noticed it the first day, and no was not like that when first inspected. I can fix it perfectly, only problem is the 'fix' would be the picture and the tool would be Photoshop CS. Now can anyone tell me how to really fix it? Can it be fixed? Using a needle would be a bad idea?

alburger

Who pushed the center of driver the in?

tabl10s

Owner
System edited: new equipment and better pics. Oh, gor those with a good eye...no that is not really what my walls look like.

alburger

Owner
I did consider a tube pre, and i actually would like to try tube. I jump the gun and bought the sunfire (ebay).

alburger

Hey
I want a MC252 but haven't made the leap yet. I have heard those speakers and agree that a tube preamp would probably be a great bet and would match well with the Mc. keep it up! Arthur

aball

I forgot to ask in my previous post...
Had you ever thought about a tube preamp for your system?

I have "read" lot's of good things about running a tube pre with SS amplification. That may very well be the way I am going if I dont go the integrated route. Seem to be a few good integrateds out there.

The detailed sound from those RF7's is incredible....GoodLuck.

speedball

Owner
Hi Speedball,
I love my MC-252 and the r7s! I'm thinking about getting a Sunfire A/V Theater Grand preamp for $650. What do you think?
I really need better volume control as the passive homemade ones are just dangling. I'll keep the R7s until i can afford some B& W nautalis.

alburger

Hi Al,
I bet that McIntosh 252 makes those 7's sing like there is no tomorrow.

My new 7's are getting the reworked crossovers first, then with a little luck I'd like to pick up something S.S., not quite a #252 but something with some grunt.

speedball

Showing all 19 posts