This unique SE Class A design has a 211KHz upsampling, a hybrid attenuator and a total of 2 components on the entire signal path from the DAC outputs to the line output.
Elrod Power Systems EPS2 Signature
These cables are targeted towards low-amperage components like CD players and pre-amplifiers. Smooth, eloquent, and refined.
Finite Elemente Cerapucss
isolation devices
APL Hi-Fi UA-S1
Hybrid amplifier with single tube voltage gain stage using two ECC99 triodes with a zero-gain and no-feedback bipolar power buffer. The absolute best amplifier I've ever heard.
APL Hi-Fi UA-S1-inside
Here's a look inside...
DNM terminated with Eichmann Bullets
The most amazing sounding copper I've ever heard, teminated with Eichmann silver bullets.
Elrod Power Systems EPS3 Signature
These cables are targeted towards high-amperage components like large amplifiers.
Finite Elemente Cerapucs
Designed for direct coupling for defined contact with components weighing up to 500 pounds, the Cerapuc's high-tech ceramic ball does all the work to reduce resonances. Along with a precision machined stainless steel base and height-adjustable top section for achieving correct damping the Cerapuc achieves better resolution, better soundstage, better dynamics and better musicality with no resonance build-up, overdamping, or loss of detail. Worth evey single penny!
gold tip toes
brass and gold cones and feet
Isoclean 105F II
Isoclean 105F II Power Bar with Audio Grade Noise Filter Copper Chassis 4 Outlets EMI Noise Isolation Rhodium and 24K Gold Plated Sockets 100% Hand Made Resting on Finite Elemente Ceraballs
Elrod EPS 3 Signature
This is David's latest version with 004 Oyaide connectors.
Oyaide R-1
Oyaide's state of the art receptacle, the 20A rated R1. These start with a base of Beryllium, which is highly polished (twice), upon which layer of Palladium is laid down (and polished twice), on which a layer of Platinum is laid over (and polished twice).
DNM Precision Solid Core
Advanced characterisation methods were developed to design the magnetic performance and to provide a balanced capacitance, inductance and resistance - factors that, when correctly aligned, can improve the amplifier's sound quality.
Totem Acoustics Hawk
The Hawk exemplifies total involvement with all your senses. Truly full range, extremely compact and aesthetically balanced, it has incredible attributes and strengths that will guide you like no other. Detail, continuity, harmonic nuances, timbre, precision and it's self effacing holography all point to an experience that will never cease to amaze and involve you. Frequency Response 35 Hz to 21 kHz ± 3 dB 29 Hz to 21 kHz ± 5 dB (with proper placement) Impedance 6 ohms Sensitivity 86 dB Power 120 W max. Crossover 2.5 kHz 1st order compensated Woofer 5 1/2 Special extreme long throw Non-resonant cone and dust cap Dynamic linear suspension for maximum airflow Patented magnet system Tweeter 1 alloy dome Flexible linear suspension Special low resonance chambered unit Max SPL's In average room (4 m x 6 m 107 dB peak from pair at 2 m Dimensions w 6.75 x d 9.5 x h 36w 170 x d 245 x h 910
DIY X-2000
Lots of power!
GIK Acoustics 242's & Tri-Traps
The GIK 242 Acoustic Panels have absorption from 4000Hz down to 250Hz. The Tri-Trap has been effectively designed to absorb more low end, but also does an excellent job of absorbing the high end, creating smooth sound absorption from 50 Hz to 5000 Hz. I have one Tri-Trap in each of the front corners, one 242 behind the listening position and one 242 on each side at the first reflection points.
Congratulations on the new baby! For a minute there, I thought your last comment was going to say "I've upgraded my room treatment to a more organic product" :)
the tripplite is a possability, but it is actually very nuetral in the system. the only thing plugged into it is a pac idos, but i've been thinking about playing around with something else. as far as the cdp, i think it makes a great transport. i've been using the channel island set-up with very good results. i believe that power cords are different in every system. i've played around with a lot of them under the $500 mark, and i really like these. i am also very happy with the upgraded sr-16s. i've compared them side by side with the panatella mk2s, and i much prefered what i have. with the upgraded tweeter and crossovers, the sound, imaging and soundstage is pretty amazing. i do really appreciate your comments. i didn't even think anybody looked at my little hi-fi.
Get rib of your Tripplite and replace it with PS audio products or mabe MIT Z Series. You can upgrade your CD player if you want or you can keep it as a source and buy a outboard DAC. It will also do goods. Power cables can be upgrade to higher model, but stick with the same brand. Keep the Golden Tube and the RA Magnum they are good. AudioQuest Feets are no good, dislocate focus on the image, add fuzzy bottom end... Buy a rollerblock or a spike. If you have money, fisrt thing you do is to get a high db Floor Standing Speakers.
System edited: i recently added the vda-1 dac from channel island, with an onix thunder digital interconnect. i plan on upgrading the power supply to the vac-1 as soon as possable. i'll probably get another shunyata diamondback for the power supply as well. i'm really liking the dac so far. it's filled in the soundstage and brought a lot more detail, without adding any harshness to the system. i'll probably try some different digital cables, both coaxile and glass toslink in the future. i'd appreciate any feedback on the cable choices out there.
i've been using this set-up for many years. the back of the cabinet has been removed and the door is vented, so it actually has very good air flow. the kt66s run a litte hotter than the old 5881s, but it's not a problem at all. as far as the imaging goes, the speakers are almost a foot in front of the rig. i've been pretty happy with soundstage and imaging too. i've just moved into a new house though, so i may be playing around with a few ideas, but for now i also have a new baby in the house so i don't think there's an equipment rack in my near future... but some day i will move all my two channel gear to another room and put together a ht for the family. thanks for your coments.
How is the airflow in the cabinet? Are you heating your house with that amp!! Looks good. I always preferred the detail of a smaller speaker... and the soundstage and imaging... it must be hard with all of the gear between the speakers to have a really 3d soundstage... I would move the cabinet over and get longer cable runs and put the tv on a small stand on the floor .. or scrap the entertainment center and go for a floor set up... low profile so that there isnt much interference between the speakers. Nice rig! Joe DiMonte
thanks for your coments. to make the isolation bearings, i cut 1 1/4" segments of a 1 1/2" wooden dowell. first i sanded them level, then i drilled a hole in the center of each, filled with a bit of blu-tak and pushed in a chrome plated drawer pull. this cost me $7 for four. then i found a bearing store, who gave me four 1/2" bearings (free). i put them directly under my cdp. they have a much more detailed character than the big feet they replaced. the cdp moves very easily, but it only goes 1/2" in any direction. i think it was a very worth while tweak for the time and money. for better or worse, i bet they make a difference.
Good Stuff! and you can tell that each component was chosen with great care. I have always thought of the sound vs dollar curve as having a distinct elbow, beyond which it takes a doubling of price to make slight improvements. From what I know, every component you have hits the optimum region of that elbow.
That's an interesting bearing tweak. Looks like wood cylinder with an indented metal top? Does the component then sit on the bearing directly? or do you have some type of hat over bearing?
